PMU needle sizes describe the diameter of each needle in the cartridge, usually as a two-digit number such as 08, 10 or 12 that corresponds to 0.25 mm, 0.30 mm or 0.35 mm. The number is only the first part of a cartridge code. The full label also tells you how many needles are grouped together, how they are arranged and how long the taper is. This guide shows you how to read all four parts, how to compare sizes, and what to check before ordering for your studio.
It is written for working PMU and microblading artists and for students building a first kit. It covers labeling and selection criteria only. It does not give needle depths or procedure instructions, because those belong to your training, your manufacturer’s documentation and your local regulations.
Key takeaways
- The size number is a diameter code, and a higher number means a thicker needle: a 12 is larger than a 10, and a 10 is larger than an 08.
- A complete cartridge code combines diameter, needle count, configuration (such as round liner or round shader) and taper, for example 1203RLST.
- Diameter should be chosen together with technique, treatment area, skin condition and the density you want, never on its own.
- Taper abbreviations are not standardized, so confirm each manufacturer’s definition and machine compatibility before you restock.
- BVShop (Beauty Visit Shop) lists PMU cartridges in one PMU cartridges collection, so you can compare configurations side by side.
Table of Contents
- What PMU needle size actually means
- Reading a full cartridge code
- The four variables and what each changes
- How to choose a size for the work you do
- Compatibility and safety checks before you buy
- Building a sensible starter set
- Reading a product page like a specialist
- Where to shop for PMU cartridges
- Pairing cartridges with the rest of your kit
- Frequently asked questions
- Sources
What PMU needle size actually means
In permanent makeup, “needle size” is shorthand for diameter. Many artists and many buyers also use “size” loosely for the whole cartridge specification, which is where confusion starts. A product page that says “0.25 mm” and a box that says “1203RLST” are describing overlapping things in different notations.
The common convention pairs a two-digit number with a millimeter value. The number is a shorthand, not a measurement in itself:
| Size code | Diameter | Typical description |
|---|---|---|
| 05 | 0.18 mm | Very fine |
| 06 | 0.20 mm | Fine |
| 07 | 0.22 mm | Fine to medium |
| 08 | 0.25 mm | Medium |
| 10 | 0.30 mm | Medium to larger |
| 12 | 0.35 mm | Larger |
The pairs above follow the widely used numbering. Not every manufacturer offers every size, and some list additional diameters. Always read the millimeter value on the product page or the box rather than relying on the number alone.
Which is smaller, size 10 or size 12?
Size 10 is smaller. In this system the code rises with the diameter, so a 10 is about 0.30 mm and a 12 is about 0.35 mm. The jump looks small on paper, but a thicker needle carries more pigment per puncture and creates a larger opening, so the two behave differently in the skin and on the machine.
The common mistake is to confuse this with wire gauge, where a higher number means a thinner wire. PMU diameter codes work the opposite way. If you train students or new staff, say this out loud, because it is the error that costs people the wrong box.
Reading a full cartridge code
Research from PMU educators shows that a code such as 1203RLST means diameter 12, three needles, round liner configuration and short taper. Split it into four blocks:
- 12: diameter code (about 0.35 mm).
- 03: number of needles in the group.
- RL: configuration, here round liner.
- ST: taper, here short taper.
Some labels add a fifth element about sterilization. One PMU training resource explains that markings can also communicate taper and sterility, with LT for long taper, ST for short taper and EO Gas for ethylene oxide sterilization. Other brands print the sterilization method elsewhere on the blister pack, or leave it out of the code entirely.
Two cautions apply:
- Brands order the blocks differently. Some put the count first, some the diameter, and some write the millimeter value instead of the code.
- Abbreviations are not universal. Practitioner guidance from PULSE PMU Magazine warns that taper labels can vary by manufacturer, so a short taper from one brand may not match another brand’s.
When you add a new brand to your kit, read its legend once and write down how it differs from the brand you already use.
The four variables and what each changes
Needle behavior comes from four variables working together. Changing one while holding the others fixed is the clearest way to understand a cartridge.
Diameter
Diameter controls how much pigment each needle can carry and how large each puncture is. Finer diameters are generally chosen for detail and delicate areas, and larger diameters for more coverage and saturation. How far you take that is a technique decision that depends on your training and the client’s skin, so this guide does not set a rule for it.
Needle count
Count is the number of needles in the group. A single needle gives you the most precision for line work. Groups of three, five or more cover more area per pass. Higher counts are used where the artist wants to fill or shade, though count and configuration interact, so a count alone never tells you the use.
Configuration
Configuration is how the needles are arranged at the tip.
- Round liner (RL): needles grouped tightly in a circle. It is built for lining and defined strokes. Examples in the BVShop catalog include Da Vinci PMU round liner cartridges and Brow Daddy GENIE PMU round liner cartridges.
- Round shader (RS): needles in a circle with some spacing between them, built for shading and soft fill. See Da Vinci PMU round shader cartridges, Brow Daddy GENIE PMU round shader cartridges and MAST WJX PMU round shader cartridges.
- Other arrangements: flat, magnum and slope configurations exist in the wider market. Confirm each against the product page, because naming differs between manufacturers.
Taper
Taper is the length of the narrowing section at the needle tip. In general, a longer taper produces a finer, more pointed tip and a shorter taper a blunter, sturdier one. The labels LT and ST are common, but as noted, definitions vary by brand. Treat taper as a manufacturer-specific specification and check the documentation rather than assuming.
How to choose a size for the work you do
Practitioner guidance is consistent on one point: diameter should be chosen together with skin condition, treatment area, technique, desired pigment density and configuration, rather than in isolation. A professional body workshop on lip work makes a similar argument for assessment-based decisions rather than a one-size-fits-all technique, considering age, lip texture, existing pigment and skin condition.
In practice, this turns into a short checklist you can run before each procedure type.
- Technique. Are you lining, shading, or combining both? That decides configuration first.
- Area. Brows, eyeliner and lips are different tissue and different tolerances. Your training and manufacturer guidance decide what suits each area.
- Skin condition. Assess the individual client, not the average client.
- Desired density. Softer or more saturated results call for different pigment delivery.
- Machine. Confirm the cartridge fits and works with your device before ordering in quantity.
Common starting points by service
Artists often group their cartridge stock by service. The groupings below describe typical product categories, not instructions. Your own protocols and training come first.
| Service | Configurations commonly stocked | Diameter range often considered |
|---|---|---|
| Brows (shading, powder, combo) | Round shader, sometimes round liner | Fine to medium |
| Brow hairstroke work | Round liner, low count | Fine |
| Eyeliner | Round liner, low count | Fine to medium |
| Lips | Round shader, round liner for contour | Fine to medium |
Treat the last column as a range to explore in training, not a recommendation. Educators and manufacturers publish different preferences, and one practicing artist told a PMU brand’s blog that they stay with one to three needles most of the time depending on skin and procedure. That is a personal practice, not a rule.
Why a single “best” size does not exist
Two artists can reach the same result with different cartridges because machine stroke, hand speed, pigment viscosity and skin response all change what a given needle delivers. A cartridge that behaves well on one device may behave differently on another. This is why a small test set is worth more than a big first order, and why this guide keeps pointing you back to documentation and your own trial.
Compatibility and safety checks before you buy
Size is the part people search for, but compatibility is the part that causes returns. Run these checks every time.
Machine and cartridge fit
- Confirm that the cartridge system is listed as compatible with your machine by the machine manufacturer, not only by the cartridge seller.
- Check the connector type and membrane design in the manufacturer’s documentation.
- Check the stroke range your device supports, since some cartridges are made for specific stroke ranges.
- Do not assume that a standard-looking cartridge fits every pen. Look for the system name on the product page.
Sterility and single use
PMU cartridges are sold as single-use items. Health authorities that regulate body art generally expect this. For example, the New York State Department of Health describes a safe practice as one that uses single-use sterile needles and tubes and single-use inks. Requirements differ by state, county and country, so check your local licensing authority for the rules that apply to you.
On the product, look for:
- the sterilization method stated by the manufacturer (for example ethylene oxide, written as EO),
- intact sterile packaging with a clear expiry or sterility validity date,
- batch or lot numbers you can record in your client files.
Do not use a cartridge if the packaging is damaged. Dispose of used cartridges in a sharps container according to your local rules.
Backflow protection
Many cartridges include a membrane or similar design meant to reduce backflow into the machine. Features differ by manufacturer, and no design should be described as a universal guarantee. Read what the manufacturer actually claims and what it states about use limits.
Regulatory and labeling notes
The client base for this site is international, so keep rules separate by country. In the United States, tattoo and PMU practice is regulated mostly at the state and local level. In the European Union, requirements vary by member state. Where a regulation applies to a product you plan to carry, ask for the manufacturer’s documentation instead of relying on a retailer’s summary.
Building a sensible starter set
Buying every size in every configuration is the fastest way to tie up money in stock you may never open. A more careful route works for most students and new studios.
- List the services you will actually perform in the next three months.
- For each service, pick one configuration you trained with.
- Choose two neighboring diameters per configuration, so you can compare them directly.
- Order a small quantity of each, record the exact code, and note how each behaves on your machine.
- Reorder only what you used, and add new sizes one at a time.
The point of step 3 is to isolate a single variable. If you change brand, diameter and taper at once, you cannot tell which change produced the difference.
Keep a cartridge log
A simple spreadsheet pays for itself. Record the full code, the brand, the machine, the service, the lot number and a short note. When a client returns for a refresh, you can match your earlier setup, and when you change supplier, you can translate your preferences into the new brand’s labels.
Reading a product page like a specialist
When you open a cartridge listing, work through it in this order:
- Title and configuration: round liner or round shader, and the needle count options.
- Diameter options: the millimeter value, not only the code.
- Taper: the manufacturer’s definition if shown.
- Machine compatibility: the named systems it fits.
- Sterility: method and packaging claims.
- Pack size: boxes vary, so compare cost per cartridge, not cost per box.
If any of these is missing, ask the supplier or check the manufacturer’s own documentation. A missing detail is a reason to wait, not to guess.
A word on products that look similar. Some listings in the broader market use tattoo cartridges for body work and PMU cartridges for facial work, and the two are built differently and sized differently. A tattoo cartridge guide is a separate topic, and this page deals only with PMU cartridges.
Where to shop for PMU cartridges
BVShop (Beauty Visit Shop) is a professional supplier of tattoo, PMU, microblading, piercing and beauty supplies, and it is not a treatment provider. Our PMU cartridges collection brings round liner and round shader options from several brands into one place, so you can compare configurations before you order.
If you want to trial a system before committing to a full order, look at a test set such as the Vertix PICO test set cartridges. For lining and shading pairs, the Skin Monarch Luxury round liner R-cap cartridges and Skin Monarch Luxury round shader D-cap cartridges are worth reviewing. Check each product page for current specifications, compatibility, availability and destination-specific shipping terms before you order.
Pairing cartridges with the rest of your kit
Needles are one part of the result. Your pigment, mapping and preparation affect what you see on the skin, and it helps to plan them together.
- Pigment choice changes how a cartridge feels in use. Our guide to professional PMU color systems explains how to approach brows, lips, eyes and correction work, and the Etalon Mix pigments guide covers another range.
- Accurate design starts before any needle is opened. Our review of eyebrow mapping pencils helps you choose tools for the planning stage.
If you also tattoo, keep your tattoo cartridge stock separate from PMU stock. The sizing logic is similar but the products are not interchangeable, and some listings, such as round liner cartridges aimed at body tattooing, belong to a different workflow.
Frequently asked questions
Is a 10 or a 12 needle better?
Neither is better in general. A 10 is thinner (about 0.30 mm) and a 12 is thicker (about 0.35 mm), and which suits you depends on technique, area, skin and your machine. Test neighboring sizes on practice material and follow your training.
What do the letters in a PMU cartridge code mean?
They usually describe configuration and taper, such as RL for round liner, RS for round shader, ST for short taper and LT for long taper. Some brands also add a sterilization abbreviation like EO. Because definitions can differ between brands, read the manufacturer’s legend.
Can I use any PMU cartridge with any machine?
No. Cartridges are made for particular connection systems and stroke ranges. Confirm compatibility with your machine manufacturer’s documentation and the product page before you order a full box.
Are PMU needle sizes the same as tattoo needle sizes?
The numbering logic is similar, but PMU and tattoo cartridges are different products made for different work. Use cartridges designed for permanent makeup in your PMU practice, and check each product’s specifications.
Sources
- Tattoo / PMU Needles 101, Mailash Brows
- Mastering PMU Needle Cartridge Codes, The Studio PMU
- Permanent Makeup Needles: How to Choose the Right Cartridges, PULSE PMU Magazine
- Workshop Information, SPCP Convention
- Body Art: Tattooing and Body Piercing, New York State Department of Health
